Exceptional piece presented at the 2016 SIHH, this unique bracelet watch has its origins in a batch of 115 rubies, weighing a total of 151.25 carats. Remarkable for the quality of their crystallization, the stones display a dense and luminous consistency typical of Mozambique deposits.
For the workshops, one technical feat consisted in bringing together and adjusting these rubies which – while of matching color – present slight variations of cut, from oval to cushion. Arranged in three rows according to a subtle line of perspective, they determined the form of the piece and suffuse it with a unique vivacity. Set in white gold, the lines of round and square diamonds – graded to measure – give rhythm to the piece and accentuate the intensity of the stones. Side by side, the rubies enter into a mutual dialogue, reinforcing their glowing red tinged with a touch of pink.
© Van Cleef & Arpels
Keeping its technical complexity hidden from sight, this creation cultivates the art of mystery thanks to a white gold plate on the inside of the bracelet. Pierced with Art Deco motifs, it hides the jewelry structure while enabling light to filter through the stones.
Other challenges involved developing an invisible hinge that enables the piece to open entirely, and creating a side drawer to reveal the time with complete discretion. Hidden within the bracelet, the dial is only visible when the drawer is delicately opened by pressing on the rubies. Containing the watch module, it slides to a tolerance of a hundredth of a millimeter beneath the stones’ girdles, without ever touching them.


























© Van Cleef & Arpels
From this movement’s fluidity to the precise position of each ruby, each stage of the production process calls for unparalleled precision and intricacy, accompanied by constant technical inventiveness. At the leading edge of the Maison’s savoir-faire, this piece required 1,500 hours’ – or more than a year’s – work before revealing its secrets.